SAN JUAN ISLANDS IN THE OFF-SEASON
Explore the Hidden Charms of the San Juan Islands in the Off-Season: A road trip itinerary.
Embark on an unforgettable road trip through the enchanting San Juan Islands, nestled in the pristine waters of Washington State. While summertime teems with tourists, we love the slower pace of the off-season. Sure, some restaurants are closed, fewer whale-watching tour boats are buzzing around, and you may not be swimming at the beaches (unless you’re into the cold plunge thing, then by all means … ). As the summer crowds disperse, you'll have the luxury of serenity, intimacy, and boundless space to truly connect with nature.
Venture into the heart of vibrant island communities, where time seemingly slows down.
Day 1: Seattle to Skagit Valley
Start your trip by driving up to Skagit Valley.
In autumn, you can enjoy the many farms during harvest season. In winter, the snow geese come to visit the farm fields and set a beautiful backdrop for photography, painting, drawing, writing. In the spring, the daffodils and annual Tulip Festival draw visitors from all over the world.
The farm is surrounded by flat, scenic rural roads ideal for cyclists and photographers. There are two restaurants and several antique shops less than a mile away in the cute little town of Conway. The Conway Muse is a funky music venue and restaurant hosting live music Thursday through Sunday nights year-round. Skagit Valley Food Co-op is a great place to pick up supplies for the rest of your trip with its large deli, good coffee, and abundant local and organic products.
Stay: Happy Little Farm
*If you’re short on time, skip the night in Skagit Valley and board the ferry in Anacortes.
Day 2: Anacortes Ferry to San Juan Island
Before hopping on the ferry, stop by Pelican Bay Books & Coffeehouse in Anacortes and grab a coffee and scone (made-from-scratch!). Browse the shelves and pick out a new book for downtime in the camper van (a great option if it’s pouring rain).
Everything on San Juan Island is a short drive away. You’ll step off the ferry in Friday Harbor, a charming historic town and the main hub for most shops, restaurants, bars, and museums.
The San Juan Islands are world-famous for whale watching. A great way to learn all about the local and migrating marine life is a visit to The Whale Museum. Get the scoop on the region’s natural history with a special focus on the orcas of J, K and L Pods living in the Salish Sea, the inland waters around the San Juan Islands.
Grab a pint and a bite at San Juan Island Brewing Co. Their tasty wood-fired pizzas complement their lagers and ales quite nicely. You can catch the game on one of their screens or simply relax and recharge before venturing outside.
Suit up for the weather and head to Lime Kiln Point State Park. Set on a rocky bluff at the west end of San Juan Island, Lime Kiln Point is considered one of the best whale watching spots on earth. Explore the easy 1.6-mile trail network, check out the early 20th century lighthouse, and see the park’s namesake, a picturesque lime kiln constructed in 1860. Make sure you have a Discover Pass.
Don’t miss Everelse! This Friday Harbor establishment offers locally crafted wines, inventive cocktails, microbrews, artisan cheeses, and cured meats all served in a cozy craftsman house with a wine garden—yes please! Music lovers are in for a treat. Everelse hosts rotating musicians on Saturdays and an open mic night series featuring seriously talented local artists every other Sunday. Check their Happenings for the latest details.
Camp at San Juan County Park, nestled along the water on San Juan Island’s west side. The park features rocky bluffs and gravel beaches that overlook Haro Strait with views to the Strait of Juan de Fuca and Vancouver Island. Most campsites have water views across an open meadow surrounded by trees. The sunsets are stunning—and you can take it all in right from camp.
Stay: San Juan County Park
Courtesy: @frau_onheiber
Day 3: San Juan Island
Set the alarm early and don’t hit snooze—we’ve got a full day ahead! Drive over to Bakery San Juan for a fresh-baked cinnamon roll and grab one of their to-go sandwiches for your hike.
We’re exploring San Juan Island National Historical Park. Even if it’s cold and raining, you’re not going to want to pass this up! The park is infamous for the 1859 conflict between the U.S. and Great Britain that started with the killing of a pig. While the incident sparked the threat of war between the two countries over territory ownership, land possession was fortunately resolved through peaceful arbitration.
The park is divided into two sections. Start with the British Camp on the north side of the island. Tour the British Barracks and walk around Bell Point. Hike the moderate, 2.2-mile out-and-back trail up Young Hill. We recommend taking a break at the summit to eat lunch and soak up the stellar views. On your way down, check out the English Camp Cemetery, a memorial to seven Royal Marines who died on the island in the 1860s. Watch for deer, foxes, eagles, ospreys, and owls in the forest that surrounds the camp.
If you’re lucky enough to be visiting Friday through Sunday in the off-season, skip lunch in the park and hit up Westcott Bay Shellfish Co. (open year-round except for the month of January). Without the hustle and bustle of the summer season, the Net Shed Kitchen at Westcott Bay offers a more intimate and relaxed experience. It still boasts beautiful views of the bay, with the option to sit indoors and out of the rain. Equipped with a heated covered patio and an outdoor fire pit, this is the ideal off-season restaurant. Oysters are, as always, the star of the menu—but with smaller crowds and a full kitchen, the staff creates new dishes every week. Reservations are highly recommended.
Up the road at the entrance to Roche Harbor, you’ll find the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park with whimsical outdoor art built alongside nature. Take a stroll through the gardens, then head into Roche Harbor. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Established in 1886, the resort features a hotel, marina, shops, restaurants, and a couple of massive lime kilns—relics from the island's storied mining past.
Make your way to the American Camp section of San Juan Island National Historical Park, but not before a stop at San Juan Islands Museum of Art as you pass through Friday Harbor. An excellent reprieve from the weather, the museum promotes the arts of the Pacific Northwest and Southwest British Columbia. Take in the museum’s three galleries with exhibitions that rotate 8-10 times per year.
Plan to explore the American Camp section of San Juan Historical Park right before sunset. Keep an eye out for foxes, eagles, rabbits, voles, and owls on Pickett’s Lane as you head to South Beach. The longest publicly accessible beach in the San Juan Islands, South Beach is where you’ll want to catch the sunset. Your reward: a dreamy sky of yellows, oranges, pinks, and purples reflecting on the shimmering water.
Opt to cook dinner at camp. Need some inspiration? Here are a few of our favorite cold-weather camping meals: chili, macaroni & cheese (spruce it up with bacon and veggies), tofu stir-fry, beef tacos, chicken curry, and chunky vegetable soup.
Stay: San Juan County Park
Day 4: San Juan Island to Orcas Island
Before you hop on the ferry, fuel up with house-made chai and a breakfast bowl at Salty Fox Coffee.
On to Orcas Island!
Conveniently located a stone’s throw from the port, Boathouse Cider Works creates delicious craft hard ciders and specialty wines. Dry, sweet, traditional, and creative options make up their menu.
For a unique gallery experience, head to Orcas Island Pottery. You’ll feel like you’ve entered a magical fairyland with old growth cedars and Douglas firs, gardens, fountains, a treehouse, log cabins filled with eclectic pottery made on site—all on a 100 foot bluff overlooking the water.
Try something tasty! We’re big fans of Girl Meets Dirt, having teamed up with the heritage food brand for our Recipes for the Road blog. Stop at their farm store for amazing preserves, shrubs, and bitters. They recently added wine to their product lineup and it’s good. Really good. Grown on Orcas Island from hand harvested orchard fruit, their wines are pressed in-house, spontaneously fermented, and bottled method ancestrale for natural bubbles. Don’t forget to make a reservation for a wine tasting.
If there’s a break in the rain, head to Crescent Beach Kayak Rentals for half-day or hourly self-guided kayak rentals. They’re just about the only place in the San Juan Islands that rents kayaks year-round. Paddle along the shoreline and spot starfish, seals, jellyfish, herons, and the occasional whale.
Head to Obstruction Pass State Park for sunset. The park offers picnicking, fishing, crabbing, beachcombing, bird watching, and hiking along a 0.6-mile interpretive trail to Obstruction Pass beach. You’ll get to use that Discover Pass again!
We highly recommend camping at Doe Bay Resort & Retreat. They have a great location on the water and a fantastic “seed-to-table” cafe offering breakfast and dinner Fridays through Sundays during the off-season. Doe Bay organically grows most of their menu’s ingredients on site, and they partner with regional, organic purveyors to round out their offerings. Dinner reservations are required.
Stay: Doe Bay Resort & Retreat
Courtesy: Orcas Island Pottery
Day 5: Orcas Island
An Orcas Island newcomer, Olga Rising serves delicious pastries, some of the best breakfast sandwiches we’ve ever tasted (no joke), and freshly brewed espresso drinks. They also offer a stellar lunch menu.
Take things up a notch and head to the highest point in the San Juan Islands. At 2,399 feet, Mount Constitution in Moran State Park offers expansive views of the San Juan archipelago with Mt. Baker looming across the water. A stone observation tower, built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936 and designed to mimic a medieval watchtower, stands at the summit. With more than 30 miles of trails, you could easily spend a day or two exploring this state park. If you only have a few hours, we recommend the 0.4-mile out-and-back hike to Rustic Falls and Cascade Falls, and the 4.1-mile loop around Mountain Lake.
After a day of exploring, head to Matia Kitchen & Bar for dinner! Trust us—if you splurge on anything during your trip, make it this. They only opened their doors in 2021, but they’ve already scored a coveted spot on The New York Times top 50 restaurants in the United States. Can’t decide what to order? Go for their 7-course tasting menu and try a bit of everything. Reservations highly recommended.
One of the benefits of camping at Doe Bay is exclusive access to their incredible covered soaking pools and sauna. With your stay, you’ll get to book a 90-minute communal soak ($20) or a 90-minute private soak ($150) surrounded by towering trees right along the water’s edge. This is truly an enchanting place to warm up and unwind. The nearby Serenity Gardens add to the tranquil ambience of a misty off-season day.
Stay: Doe Bay Resort & Retreat
Day 6: Orcas Island to Seattle
Time to start the journey back. Make sure to swing into Gere-a-Deli when you get off the ferry in Anacortes. Housed in a downtown, historic brick building, this family-owned and operated breakfast and lunch joint has been serving mouth-watering quiches, soups, salads, and sandwiches for over 40 years.
*Make sure to check hours of operation at all establishments! Off-season can be fickle and many places scale back their services with less tourists.
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